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A breaker that keeps tripping, a light that flickers every time the AC kicks on, an outlet that stopped working for no reason. Electrical problems rarely fix themselves, and the symptom you notice is usually not where the actual fault is. A dead outlet in the bedroom can be caused by a tripped GFCI in the bathroom. Flickering lights across the house can point to a loose connection at the meter. Our electricians find the cause, not just the symptom. We test circuits under load, open the devices and connections involved, check the panel, and explain what we found in plain terms before any work starts. Most problems are fixed the same visit. When the fault points to something bigger, like a failing panel or deteriorating wiring, we tell you what's urgent, what can wait, and what it will cost.
Integrated Electrical Solutions – Licensed NJ Electricians NJ Electrical License #34EB01852700 | Serving Homes Across New Jersey
A breaker trips to protect the wire from overheating. If it trips once after you ran a space heater and a hair dryer on the same circuit, that's the breaker doing its job. If it trips repeatedly, trips with very little running, or won't reset at all, something is wrong. Common causes are an overloaded circuit, a short in a device or appliance, damaged wiring, or a breaker that has worn out. Newer AFCI and GFCI breakers can also trip on wiring faults that older breakers never detected. Don't keep resetting a breaker that trips again right away. Each reset puts stress on a circuit that already has a problem.
One flickering bulb is usually the bulb, a loose lamp, or an incompatible LED dimmer. Flickering in several rooms, or lights that dim when the AC, sump pump, or microwave starts, is different. It can mean a loose connection in the panel, an overloaded service, or a loose neutral at the meter or service entrance. A loose neutral can send higher-than-normal voltage to some circuits and damage electronics and appliances, so whole-house flickering should be checked promptly.
Before assuming the worst, check for a tripped GFCI outlet. One GFCI in a bathroom, garage, kitchen, or basement often protects other outlets downstream, sometimes in a different room. If every GFCI is reset and the outlet is still dead, the cause is often a loose "backstabbed" connection, a failed device, or a broken connection in another box on the same circuit. Dead outlets that come and go are a sign of a loose connection that is heating up, which shouldn't be ignored.
A dimmer can feel slightly warm in normal use. A standard outlet or switch should not. Heat, scorch marks, melted plastic, or a faint burning smell at a device mean a connection is failing or the device is overloaded. Stop using it and turn off its breaker. This is one of the most common causes of electrical fires we see, and it is usually a simple repair if caught early.
If some rooms are dead while others work, and no breaker is tripped, one of the two legs of your electrical service may have failed. This can be a utility problem at the transformer or service drop, or a fault in your meter base, service cable, or main breaker. Call your utility first (JCP&L or PSE&G in most of our service area). If they find no problem on their side, the fault is on yours, and it needs an electrician the same day.
A quiet hum from a transformer, ballast, or doorbell is normal. Crackling or sizzling from an outlet, switch, or the panel is not. It usually means electricity is arcing across a loose or damaged connection. Arcing creates intense heat at a single point. Turn off the affected circuit if you can do so safely and call.
A static zap in winter is harmless. A shock or tingle from a light switch, appliance, faucet, or metal fixture is not. It points to a ground fault, missing or broken grounding, or a damaged appliance cord. Shocks near water are the most dangerous. Stop using the fixture or appliance and have it checked immediately.
Bulbs that burn out far sooner than they should can be caused by loose fixture connections, the wrong bulb type for an enclosed fixture, or voltage problems on the circuit. When it happens in several fixtures, we check the voltage at the panel and the service connections.
A GFCI that won't reset may have failed, or it may be detecting a real ground fault. Outdoor GFCIs that trip during rain usually have water getting into the box, a missing in-use cover, or a damaged exterior cable. Replacing the GFCI without fixing the moisture problem rarely lasts.
Once is fine. If it trips again right away or keeps tripping over several days, leave it off and have the circuit checked. Repeated resets stress wiring and connections that may already be damaged.
A slight dim when a large motor starts can be normal. Noticeable flicker, or flicker across the whole house, can mean an overloaded circuit, a loose connection in the panel, or a loose neutral at the service. It's worth having tested.
The most common cause is a tripped GFCI elsewhere on the circuit. If resetting every GFCI doesn't help, there is likely a failed device or a loose connection in another box on the same circuit.
Most of the time, yes. Our vans carry common devices, breakers, and wiring supplies. Larger fixes, like a panel replacement, are scheduled once permits and materials are ready.
Yes. We provide 24/7 emergency service for burning smells, sparking, hot panels, shocks, and partial or total power loss. Call (609) 752-6074.
We focus on the problem you called about, but we'll tell you about anything unsafe we see along the way. For a full picture before buying, selling, or renovating, a home electrical assessment covers the whole system.
Yes. We diagnose and repair electrical problems for offices, retail, and light commercial buildings across New Jersey.
A few simple checks can solve the problem or help us diagnose it faster. None of them involve removing covers or touching wiring.
Stop there. Don't remove the panel cover, open outlet boxes, or replace breakers yourself. The panel's main lugs stay energized even with the main breaker off, and a wrong repair can hide a problem that later starts a fire.
Some symptoms mean an active hazard. Turn off the affected breaker if you can reach it safely and call us for emergency service at (609) 752-6074
We understand the unique challenges of New Jersey homes — from older wiring systems to coastal weather demands, commercial properties and increasing electrical loads from modern appliances and electric vehicles.
State Licensed and Insured with over (100) 5-star Home Advisor Reviews and 4.5+ rating on Angie's List. Rest assured, you can trust us in your NJ home.
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"The only electrician I would use...We had a bunch of lighting installed and moving on to larger projects including some major remodels with this company. Would not hesitate to use again and I’m sending all my friends to them."
Angie's List
"Luis did some electrical for me today. He called to inform he was running late with a new ETA. Luis was very pleasant, knowledgeable, and did a marvelous job, including clean-up. He traced out my problem with a dining room light, replaced a faulty switch and discovered how to correct a problem that existed since moving here 2 years ago."
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"Cory and his great team at Integrated replaced my old unsafe electrical panel. The whole team did superb work and could not be happier. When they say they’ll be there at 8am that means 8am. Guys know what they’re doing but also super personable, the kind you’d want to grab a brew with after. Could not recommend anyone else! Thanks guys."
Home Advisor
"Great communication - very responsive. They installed 3 bathroom exhaust fans. Arrived early for appointment and installed quickly. Cleaned up after the work was complete. Very professional."
"On time, super polite, super professional. Went above and beyond to solve our old house, cobbled together wiring. More projects yet to come with these electricians!"
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"Cory and Will provided A+ customer service and were both super knowledgeable and professional. Will came to my home to understand why I was having issues with my circuit breaker, which was causing issues with other appliances. He was able to effectively diagnose and remedy the issue over the course of a few visits."
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"I called 3 different attic fan installers. I received two on site visits and was quoted $900 and $800. IES didn't come out but gave me a quote over the phone for $595. I hired them and it was the right decision. A team of two men came out and replaced my attic fan in 60 minutes. They did a great job and my new attic fan is helping to keep my house cool on the hottest day of the year so far. "
Project type: Outlet repair / partial outageLocation: Willingboro, NJService: Reseat a disconnected hot wire and confirm downstream outlets; check the panel for aluminum wiring
The challenge: One outlet had a hot wire that broke off the terminal. That single open connection caused a partial outage in 4 rooms. The homeowner had the affected circuits off and did not want to strip, hook, and reseat the wire themselves.A wire that leaves a terminal can kill every outlet downstream of it. The repair is small. Finding the right device, and not assuming the breaker is the problem, is the job.
The result: The broken hot is back on the terminal. Power is restored to the outlets that had been out. The panel was checked for aluminum wiring while we were in it. 4 dark rooms often start at one loose or broken screw. Reseating that conductor and testing the rest of the circuit is safer than working it live, and it avoids a panel or breaker replacement the house did not need.
Project type: Kitchen remodel electrical / appliance circuitsLocation: Brick Township, NJService: Wire dishwasher, range, microwave, and wine fridge; extend three attic circuits; add breakers; garage motion switch
The challenge: The kitchen was mid-remodel. The dishwasher, range, microwave, and wine fridge still needed power. The homeowner expected the wiring to already be in place.It was not at the appliances. Three circuit ends were sitting in the attic, on the wrong side of the house from where the kitchen needed them.
The result: The microwave, range, and wine fridge each have a finished outlet. The dishwasher is hardwired. The attic splices are in boxes, fed by new home runs from the panel. The new breakers are labeled. The garage has a motion sensor switch. A remodel often leaves wire ends in the attic or inside a half wall with no box and no path to the appliance. Landing those conductors, homing them to the panel, and putting a labeled breaker on each circuit is what makes the kitchen usable when the cabinets go back in.
Project type: Outdoor disconnect / junction repairLocation: Allentown, NJService: Replace a damaged outdoor disconnect, support it properly, and restore a safe working connection
The challenge: The homeowner needed the outdoor junction/disconnect for the septic system fixed. The existing disconnect was damaged and no longer a reliable, weather-exposed connection for the pump circuit.A failed outdoor disconnect on septic power is not a cosmetic issue. If that circuit opens, corrodes, or comes loose off a weak mount, the pump can die and the tank can back up.
The result: Integrated Electrical Solutions removed the damaged disconnect and replaced it with a new 30 amp disconnect.Because the old setup lacked proper support, we set a post in the ground, mounted the new disconnect to it, made up the connections, and confirmed the circuit was working. Outdoor septic disconnects take rain, lawn equipment, and movement in the soil. Replacing the can is only half the job. It has to be supported, rated for the load, and landed so the pump has a clean on/off point for service later.
Project type: Outlet and GFCI repairLocation: Allentown, NJService: Replace a bathroom GFCI and repair a melted splice that had killed the kitchen circuit
The challenge: 3 home outlets and a GFCI were not working. A dead kitchen circuit often looks like a bad GFCI at the start of the run. In this case the bathroom GFCI needed to be replaced, but that was not the whole fault.
The result: The bathroom has a new GFCI. The melted connection by the dining room table is repaired with a new duplex. The outlets that were out are back on. 3 dead outlets are rarely three separate failures. Here the kitchen side was one bad splice, hidden behind a device that still looked normal from the room. Replacing only the GFCI would have left the melted wires in the wall.
Project type: GFCI outlet replacementLocation: Highlands, NJService: Replace a failed GFCI feeding the washer and modem outlets
The challenge: The washer outlet and the outlet for the modem were out. It sounded like a bad GFCI. A GFCI that will not reset can be the device, or it can be a real fault on the load side. The difference is whether there is voltage on the line side.
The result: The washer circuit has a new GFCI. The device that would not reset is out, and the outlets it protected are back on a working GFCI. A washer and a modem on the same GFCI go dark together when that one device fails. Voltage behind a GFCI that will not reset is the check that says replace the outlet instead of hunting for a breaker or a broken wire that is not there.
After more than 14 years of combined experience calls across Ocean, Monmouth, Mercer, Bergen, and Middlesex Counties, the same underlying causes come up again and again.
Many homes built from the 1970s on have outlets and switches wired through push-in "backstab" holes instead of screw terminals. Over years of heating and cooling, these connections loosen, arc, and fail. They are behind a large share of dead outlets and warm devices.
Federal Pacific Stab-Lok and Zinsco panels are still common in homes built from the 1950s through the 1980s. Their breakers have a well-documented history of failing to trip, and many insurers flag them. When troubleshooting leads us to one, we'll recommend a panel upgrade.
Homes wired roughly between 1965 and 1973 may have aluminum branch circuits. Aluminum expands and contracts more than copper, and connections at outlets and switches can overheat. These can often be repaired with approved connectors without a full rewire.
Older homes in Trenton, Hackensack, Ridgewood, and other pre-war neighborhoods often still have original wiring with brittle insulation and no ground. Problems here usually point toward partial or whole-home rewiring.
Kitchens, home offices, and finished basements often draw more than the original circuits were designed for. The fix is usually a new dedicated circuit, not a bigger breaker. Upsizing a breaker on wire that can't handle it is a fire hazard.
Older wiring and amateur additions sometimes put two circuits on one neutral wire. This can cause flickering, odd voltage readings, and overheating that are hard to trace without testing.
Near the shore, corrosion builds up on outdoor outlets, meter bases, and service connections. After storms and flooding, water in boxes and panels causes faults that may not appear until weeks later.
Previous owners' projects, like a basement outlet spliced into the wrong circuit or a fixture with no box, cause problems that only show up later.
We Solve These Issues Everyday for NJ Homeowners.
Most troubleshooting calls end with a straightforward repair: a failed outlet or switch replaced, a loose connection remade, a worn breaker swapped, or a new dedicated circuit added. These are usually finished the same visit. Sometimes the fault is a symptom of a larger problem. Repeated failures on an aging panel, widespread backstabbed or aluminum connections, or brittle original wiring mean a spot repair won't last. In those cases we fix the immediate hazard first, then lay out your options, from targeted repairs to a panel upgrade or partial rewire, with honest pricing for each. You decide what happens next, with no pressure.
Service Call Pricing: Integrated Electrical Solutions charges a $199 service call fee, which includes the first 30 minutes for diagnosis. Additional labor is $75 per 30 minutes. If a second electrician or helper is needed, an additional $55 per hour applies. Emergency service calls typically cost $499–$699, depending on the issue. Weekend appointments are subject to availability. The total cost depends on the work required, materials, accessibility, and whether additional wiring or permits are needed. Ask us to explain any additional charges before work begins.
